Nordkap – Lakselv – Inari – Rovaniemi – Lulea – Umea – Sundsvall
1 August 2022…Here I am at the majestic landmark on the North Cape with the aim of pedaling southwards over the next six weeks.
The weather is like a picture book. Steel-blue skies are probably the exception in this region. I enjoy the view over the sea all the more before I start the first turn of the pedals on the European road E 69, the only road connection to and from the North Cape. After riding some 50 kilometers, a dark tube approaches me…
The next seven kilometers will be an absolute novelty.
I have to prepare myself for a moment. Because although it doesn’t really get dark in this polar climate zone in summer, I want to attach my headlamp as well as the bike lights and put on a warm jacket. I am in front of the „Nordkapptunnelen“.
This gigantic underwater tunnel connects the island of Mageroya (where the North Cape is located) with the mainland. Passage is also permitted by bicycle.
First it’s a steep two- kilometer descent which brings me to exactly 212 meters below sea level… Now comes the flat terrain with three kilometers. Here I stop briefly, although it is bitterly cold. I take a few photos to immortalise my experience, because until now I had never ridden so low down on my bike. Far and wide there is no vehicle in sight. Then, in the middle of the tunnel, an emergency cabin. Bevor the end of the tunnel it is steep again for two kilometers. But this time I need more energy, because it is now going uphill. I am realizing how much luggage I’m carrying and try to keep my balance with each turn of the pedals without getting off. Slowly, meter by meter, it gradually gets lighter until I finally arrive outside in the dreamlike nature. As the route continues, it goes along the coastal road through a picturesque and breathtaking arctic tundra landscape. I am curious to see how many more kilometers it will take to discover the first tree in this probably treeless landscape. With the end of the coastal road from Olderfjorden, the first bushes are visible.
And soon really sturdy trees.
Pedaling for days along the Arctic Sea Road, admiring the beauty of nature from the saddle, how one lake is more beautiful and the next even more beautiful than the next, and how everywhere you look there are forests, I cross „the arctic circle line“ shortly before Rovaniemi. The Arctic Circle Line, which separates the icy north from the rest of the world along the 66th parallel, is also known here as the gateway to the north. For me, as I’m heading south it’s just the other way around.
This very region, deep in Finnish Lapland, is also home to a world-famous figure, Father Christmas. And I want to surprise this Santa Claus with my visit. His residence is in a cosy building with a beautiful wooden façade on the outside. Shortly after the entrance, you enter the reception room with wooden paneling and a cosy fireplace, where Santa Claus greets me personally. He is pleased to make the acquaintance of the cycling man from Biel (as he calls me). In any case, it is an interesting encounter with the white-bearded gentleman, who also takes this opportunity to make a personal announcement.
In winter, he promises me, he will come to Switzerland with his flying reindeer!
I hope, of course, to Biel.
The next stop is his post office. He runs his own main post office in Santa Claus Village. This mysterious place is where children’s wish lists arrive from all over the world. On a wooden wall, there is a huge red shelf with many small compartments where the hopeful letters are sorted by country and wait for a reply. Every year, half a million letters reach Santa’s post office. It is also possible to buy Christmas cards, which come with their own stamp and the famous postmark directly from Santa’s Post Office. At the same time, you have the choice of having the mail sent immediately or just in time for Christmas.
After this detour, I continue on my way and get on my „Carbnonesel“. I’m probably not quite as fast as Father Christmas, but I still make good progress and reach the Gulf of Bothnia next, leaving the Arctic Sea Route from Finland to Sweden.
The past eight days have been very demanding. This is because there is currently a very strong headwind in my direction of travel. Now I have arrived in Sundsvall and here I allow myself a first bike-free day after 1551 kilometers. I use this day to visit an osteopath, as some of my joints are rebelling a bit at the moment. Daniel Larsson is an experienced specialist and gets everything back into balance as far as possible. Now I am looking forward to tomorrow and am very motivated to continue my journey on my gravel bike alis FLOW towards the cycling capital.
